FLCC> A beginner's questions: Non racer perspective

[Daniel Kidney]

Mark (S), you should never promise not to post!
Mark (R), sorry, I don't buy your new bike talk.  And to be perfectly 
honest I'm a little appalled you even mention Walmart ("Evilmart," as 
you call it, accurately enough).  Yes, you do get what you pay for, and 
at $150 new, that's a terrible terrible bike.  Sure, you could find 
something for Billy to ride up and down the driveway.  But it's exactly 
the wrong thing for someone  looking to get into road biking.  If you 
get a bike  more than 10 years old, and everything is still fairly 
smooth you've got an infallible guarantee that you're getting something 
far better than a Walmart special.  Entry level basically sucks if 
you're getting a bike when you're not sure, but hoping to ride more and 
more.  Entry level bikes aren't around anymore 25 years later, or if 
they are, they're at a yard sale, and with a basic knowledge of 
bicycles you can discount them as junk.
Cole, I definitely support the used bike route.  I have two primary 
bikes now, both used; granted, I paid $800 for one of my used bikes, 
and regularly race on it, but the other was $125, and I plan to ride it 
to South America this fall (after a lot of upgrades, admittedly, but my 
brother is coming with me on a bike he got for free and will be putting 
less than $200 into)  If you're willing to do a little internet 
research that helps.  It would be silly to post technical articles to 
the club list, but there are some great websites.  Sheldon Brown tops 
that list in my experience.  Learn what good fit is before you start 
checking out a lot of bikes (Google Sheldon Brown).
One gauge of the extent to which components have become obsolete is the 
wheel size.  27" wheels generally reside on bikes that just seem not 
worth upgrading once you look into it.  Shoot for something with 700C 
(Sheldon Brown can explain, his wheel sizing article is extensive).  
Other things, while far from not being mendable, in my mind imply bad 
things about the manufacture (or maintenance) of the bike: bikes on 
which the entire length of the cable is in housing (you never see the 
steel cable, about 1mm in diameter), anything other than drop 
handlebars, foam handlebar wrap (anything wound has better 
implications),  brakes that suck (this is easy to test, ride the bike 
and then stop, use front brakes, never skid the rear, again, refer to 
Sheldon, rear brakes are all but superfluous when not in large groups 
or descending mountains, and good bikes have good brakes, stopping is 
important).  Other than that, check the bike out, spin everything that 
supposed to spin, it should be fairly smooth, but should not wobble 
(try to shake a wheel side to side, you shouldn't feel play, if you do, 
it's easy to mend, but it says good things about the bike if it's all 
ready adjusted properly). Do the same with cranks, handlebars, and 
pedals (if  there's a little play in the pedals that's nothing to 
disregard a bike for though).
My slightly overblown 2 cents,
Daniel

On Aug 11, 2006, at 3:02 PM, Mark Sandler wrote:

> I promise I am not going to post anymore... :)
>
> The only part of this I agree that used bikes are harder to find than 
> new ones, and it is a good idea to have someone to check it/have it 
> riden...
>
> -----------------------
>
> > Yes, a commuter bike can be bought cheaplyYou can even buy a new 
> bike at Dicks, or
>  > Evilmart for about $100-150.  But you will get what> you pay for.
>
> Are you kidding me? Have you ever tried one?   Those should be 
> prohibited for creating
> image for bicycle as unreliable toy "only good for occasional stroll 
> in the park, within walking
> distance from your car".
>
>
>>  more than you initially bargained for, trying to make it into 
>> something it isn't.  You spent $300 for your bike.  For another $150, 
>> you could have had something new, properly assembled, with a 
>> warranty, service contract, and properly fitted.  And likely lighter 
>> than what you're riding. 
> Unlikely. My estimate for comparable new road bike (weight/frame wise) 
> would be $900.
> Component wise -- sure, newer ones are really cool, but the question 
> how much do you care for 7 vs 9 gears on the back, and for shifters 
> combined with brake levers, if you don't race...  :-)
>
> Where exactly you could get a new road bike for $450?  Besides on $450 
> bike (whatever it is) over three years, I would spend another $300 on 
> maintenance. It is not that those somehow come with everlasting 
> components...:)
>
>
>
>> For $100, you're unlikely to find a quality used bike.  There is a 
>> misconception that used
> I agree, I was lucky. But $300 sounds like a reasonable price :)
>
>
>> the bike you bought needs a new stem, that your crank length is all 
>> wrong, that you have a worn chain, worn cassette and a 7-speed 
>> derailleur (for which the shop doesn't have
> In the worst case scenario.
>
>  
>
>>  And you can definitely do a Tuesday night race, or a Citizen's race 
>> on a $500 bike (low-end). 
> as well as on $300 (decent used road bike), and even, perhaps on a 
> mountain bike, if you are fit. :)
>
>
>
>
> mark_______________________________________________
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